The High-Altitude Vineyards of Colomé

In the remote upper reaches of the Calchaquí Valleys in Salta, Argentina, the air is thin, the sun is fierce, and the landscape feels more like Mars than a traditional wine region. This is the home of Bodega Colomé. Founded in 1831, it is the oldest continuously working winery in Argentina, but its age is only half the story. What draws travelers here—those willing to endure many hours on dusty, corrugated gravel roads—is its extreme geography.

Colomé sits at an elevation where most European viticulturists would consider it impossible to grow grapes. The estate’s vineyards range from 2,300 meters to an astonishing 3,111 meters above sea level at the Altura Máxima site. The result of this altitude is a microclimate that produces some of the most concentrated, complex, and intensely colored Malbecs on the planet. It is a place where the connection between the soil and the sky is palpable in every glass.

Local Story

The story of Colomé is inextricably linked to the Dávalos family, who founded the estate, and later the late Swiss entrepreneur Donald Hess, who fell in love with this desolate valley in the late 1990s. Hess recognized that the high ultraviolet radiation and the massive temperature swings between day and night (diurnal shift) forced the grapes to develop thicker skins to protect themselves. This natural defense mechanism is exactly what gives high-altitude Malbec its deep violet hue and robust tannins.

But Colomé is more than just a production facility; it is a self-sustaining community. Because of its isolation, the bodega operates its own hydroelectric plant and supports the nearby village of Molinos. When you walk through the estate, you aren't just seeing a business; you are seeing a colonial-era estancia that has survived the rise and fall of empires, the harsh Andean winters, and the sheer logistical difficulty of moving wine from the edge of the mountains to the rest of the world.

Experience Guide

Visiting Colomé requires planning, as it is not a place you simply 'drop by.' Most visitors arrive from the town of Cachi or Cafayate. Once you reach the estate, the experience is quiet and contemplative. You can tour the century-old cellars, where pre-phylloxera vines still produce fruit, followed by a tasting of their flagship Estate Malbec and the delicate, floral Torrontés—a white grape that is Salta's other great contribution to the wine world.

For a more immersive experience, the Estancia Colomé offers a handful of guest rooms that overlook the valley. At night, the absence of light pollution reveals a sky so dense with stars it feels close enough to touch. If you use Zuro to map out your route through the Calchaquí Valleys, ensure you leave plenty of daylight for the drive, as the scenery along Route 40 is as much a part of the experience as the wine itself.

The James Turrell Museum

Unexpectedly, one of the world's most significant contemporary art installations is located right on the winery grounds. Donald Hess was a prolific art collector and dedicated a massive, custom-built space to the work of American light and space artist James Turrell. The museum is a series of light installations that play with perception, including the 'Unseen Blue' skyspace—at its best during sunset when the changing colors of the sky interact with the interior light. It is a surreal, meditative experience that perfectly mirrors the transcendent quality of the high-altitude landscape outside.

What to Eat and Drink

While the Malbec is the star, do not overlook the Torrontés. In Salta, this grape finds its highest expression, offering aromas of jasmine and peach with a surprisingly crisp acidity. Pair these wines with local Salteña empanadas. Unlike their counterparts in Buenos Aires, Salteña empanadas are typically smaller, baked in a wood-fired oven, and contain diced potato and a squeeze of lime. The spice level in the Andean north is also higher, often accompanied by a 'llajua' sauce made from grated tomatoes and locoto peppers.