The Wild Rice Bowl and the Boreal Pine: A Table at Northern Ground

In the town of Ely, the pavement literally ends where the wilderness begins. This is the gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), a million-acre labyrinth of glacial lakes and boreal forest where internal combustion engines are banned and the only way forward is by paddle. For decades, the culinary identity of this region was defined by survival: dehydrated pouches, trail mix, and the occasional shore lunch of walleye fried over an open flame.

But on Sheridan Street, within a storefront that captures the quiet, sturdy aesthetic of the Iron Range, Northern Ground is translating the rugged soul of the Northwoods into something refined. It is a place where the grit of a multi-day portage meets the precision of seasonal cooking, centered around the most iconic ingredient of the Upper Midwest: wild rice.

Local Story

Wild rice—or manoomin as it is known to the Anishinaabe—is not actually rice, but an aquatic grass native to the shallow waters of Minnesota’s lakes. In Ely, it is more than a staple; it is a sacred link to the landscape. To stand in Northern Ground is to see how this ancient grain anchors a modern menu. The restaurant operates with an awareness of the seasons that dictate life here. In the winter, when the lakes freeze deep enough to support dog sleds, the kitchen leans into root vegetables and heavy braises. In the summer, when the town swells with canoeists, the flavors brighten.

Owner and chef Brandon Powell brought a background in high-end hospitality back to his roots in Northern Minnesota, creating a space that feels like an extension of a well-loved cabin. The interior avoids the kitsch of typical 'northwoods' decor, opting instead for clean lines, warm wood, and a view of the town’s slow-moving rhythm. It’s the kind of place where a local logger might sit at the bar next to a traveler who just spent ten days in the woods, both seeking the same thing: a meal that tastes like the place they inhabit.

Experience Guide

Visiting Northern Ground requires a shift in pace. While Ely is a town built on early departures and long days on the water, this is a space meant for decompression. The menu is a rotating celebration of what the region provides. You might find a wild rice porridge for breakfast that redefines the grain’s potential, or a dinner service featuring local lake fish paired with seasonal foraged greens.

One of the standout experiences is their treatment of the wild rice soup. Unlike the heavy, flour-thickened versions found in roadside diners across the state, the version here often highlights the smoky, nutty integrity of the grain itself. The textures reflect the environment: chewy, earthy, and resilient. For those preparing to head into the BWCAW, a meal here serves as a final sensory anchor before the isolation of the woods. For those returning, it is the ultimate 'civilization' meal—fresh, thoughtful, and deeply restorative. The beverage program is equally curated, featuring regional craft beers and cocktails that often utilize local berries or spruce tips.

The Grain of the Lakes

To understand the food in Ely, you must understand the water. The wild rice served in this region is often hand-harvested by canoe, using wooden knockers to gently tap the ripe grains into the boat. This labor-intensive process ensures the survival of the plant and preserves a tradition that predates the state of Minnesota itself. At Northern Ground, the kitchen treats this ingredient with the respect it deserves, avoiding over-processing and allowing the natural, tea-like aroma of the rice to lead the dish. You can find similar local products by using Zuro to map out small-batch producers across the Arrowhead region.

The Spirit of Sheridan Street

Sheridan Street is the heartbeat of Ely, lined with outfitters selling Kevlar canoes and wool shirts. Northern Ground sits as a culinary lighthouse on this stretch. Even in the dead of winter, when temperatures drop well below zero and the town settles into a quiet hibernation, the restaurant remains a community hub. The large windows look out onto a street where dog teams are a common sight, offering a warm vantage point to watch the survivalist culture of the North in action. It is a reminder that even in the harshest climates, there is room for elegance and hospitality.