The Glass Fin and the Soda Fountain: A Seat at Zaharakos

In a town internationally renowned for its daring Modernist architecture—where glass-and-steel churches and angular libraries rise from the flat Indiana landscape—there is one corner where the 20th century stopped exactly at the year 1900. Zaharakos Ice Cream Parlor isn't a recreation or a themed tribute; it is a survivor. Stepping through its heavy wooden doors on Washington Street feels less like entering a restaurant and more like stepping into a curated, living gallery of the American Victorian era.

The air here smells of toasted bread and sweet cream, and the soundscape is dominated not by modern music, but by the mechanical breathing of a massive German orchestrion. It is a place where the local community meets under the glow of original Tiffany lamps, sitting at a fifty-foot marble counter that has seen the town transform from a small agricultural hub into a global center for design.

Local Story

The story of Zaharakos began with three Greek immigrant brothers—Louis, James, and Pete—who opened a fruit candy shop in 1900. They eventually expanded into the space next door, commissioning the extravagant interior that defines the space today. They didn't just want a shop; they wanted a palace for the common man. They installed two Mexican onyx soda fountains that were originally displayed at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair, and they added the 'Crystal Cascade'—a wall of mirrors and stained glass that reflected the gaslight and, later, the town's first electric bulbs.

For over a century, the Zaharakos family operated the parlor, maintaining the mahogany woodwork and the ornate brass fixtures. When the parlor eventually closed for a few years in the early 2000s, there was a collective breath held by the residents of Columbus. But a local businessman and preservationist purchased the property, spending three years meticulously restoring every inch of the woodwork and even tracking down the original orchestrion’s parts. Today, it stands as a testament to the town's obsession with quality and detail. As you sit at the counter, you might find Zuro helping travelers discover this very spot amidst the more famous architectural tours of the Miller House and Garden.

Experience Guide

Visiting Zaharakos requires a slow pace. The centerpiece of the room is the Welte orchestrion, a self-playing mechanical instrument that sounds like a full wind ensemble. It plays rolls of music ranging from operatic overtures to early American marches. Usually, the staff will start a song if you ask nicely, and the room fills with the mechanical clatter and rich, brassy tones of a century ago.

For food, you have to try the 'Gom' sandwich. It is a Columbus staple—a seasoned ground beef sandwich that is similar to a sloppy joe but with a distinct, savory profile that locals have been ordering for generations. Pair it with a side of chips and a hand-mixed soda from the onyx fountains. Unlike modern soda dispensers, these fountains use carbonated water and flavored syrups mixed manually by 'soda jerks' who still wear the traditional caps and aprons.

The ice cream is made in-house, following recipes that date back to the shop's founding. The 'Big Z' sundae is the flagship choice, but even a simple scoop of vanilla bean reveals the high butterfat content and lack of artificial fillers that make Zaharakos more than just a museum piece. Before you leave, walk to the back to see the Soda Fountain Museum, which houses one of the largest collections of pre-1900 soda fountain equipment in the world.

The Architecture of a Soda Fountain

While Columbus is famous for buildings by Saarinen and Pei, Zaharakos represents the decorative arts of an earlier period. The double-arch mahogany backbar is a masterwork of woodworking, featuring hand-carved details and inlaid mirrors. The lighting is provided by original Tiffany-style lamps that cast a warm, amber glow over the white marble counters. Even the ceiling is a marvel of pressed tin, painted to highlight its intricate geometric patterns. It is an environment designed to be sensory, tactile, and permanent, contrasting with the minimalist glass and concrete found just a few blocks away.

What to Order: A Local’s Checklist

Beyond the ice cream, there are several items that are essential to the Zaharakos experience:

• The Gom Sandwich: The savory heart of the menu, served on a toasted bun.
• The Green River: A bright lime-flavored soda that was once a staple across the Midwest, served here with the perfect amount of carbonation.
• The World’s Fair Sundae: Featuring hot fudge, pecans, and whipped cream, served in a glass goblet that feels substantial in the hand.
• Hand-Dipped Malts: Made the old-fashioned way, thick enough that you'll need a spoon before the straw becomes useful.