The Boundary Waters Shore Lunch and the Granite Slabs: A Meal at The Boathouse

In the town of Ely, Minnesota, the air smells of pine needles, woodsmoke, and the damp, clean scent of the Superior National Forest. This is the gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), a million-acre expanse of glacial lakes and boreal forest where internal combustion is banned and the only way forward is by paddle. Before paddlers push off into the silence, or immediately after they emerge sun-scorched and wind-burned, they congregate at The Boathouse Brewpub & Restaurant.

Located on Sheridan Street, Ely’s main artery, The Boathouse serves as an unofficial town hall for the Northwoods. It is a place where professional guides, local timber workers, and urban escapees sit shoulder-to-shoulder under timber rafters. The floorboards are scuffed by hiking boots, and the conversation is almost exclusively centered around portage conditions, lure selection, and the elusive majesty of the northern lights. It is here that the regional flavors of Northern Minnesota—walleye, wild rice, and cold, clean ale—are elevated from camp-stove basics to a proper homecoming feast.

Local Story

Ely has always been a town of survival and grit. Originally a mining outpost, it transitioned into one of the world's premier paddling destinations after the Wilderness Act protected the surrounding lakes. The Boathouse captures this transition perfectly. The building itself feels like an extension of a lakeside cabin, with walls adorned with vintage oars and photographs of a younger, wilder Minnesota.

The soul of the menu is the walleye, a fish so deeply ingrained in Minnesota culture that it is the official state fish. In the wilderness, a 'shore lunch' consists of a fresh-caught walleye filleted on a flat granite rock and fried in a cast-iron skillet over an open fire. At The Boathouse, they respect this tradition, preparing the fish with a light, crisp coating that doesn't mask the sweet, flaky meat.

Then there is the wild rice. This isn't the cultivated 'paddy rice' you find in grocery stores; in this region, wild rice (Manoomin) is a sacred grain harvested by hand from canoes in shallow lakes. Its presence on the plate is a reminder of the thousands of years of human history that preceded the arrival of the first French voyageurs. When you pair these flavors with a house-brewed pint, like the Blueberry Blonde—a nod to the wild berries found on the sun-soaked portage trails—you aren't just eating a meal; you are consuming the geography of the Iron Range.

Experience Guide

A visit to The Boathouse is best enjoyed after you have spent at least a few hours on the water. The transition from the stillness of the lakes to the lively hum of the brewpub is part of the charm. If you are arriving during the summer months, expect a wait; the porch and the bar stools are the most coveted real estate in town.

Start with a flight of their house-brewed beers. The 'Boundary Waters Brunette' or the 'Cast Iron Cream Ale' are staples that lean into the malt-forward, hearty profiles preferred in the north. For the main event, the walleye sandwich or the walleye tacos are popular, but the pan-fried walleye dinner with a side of wild rice soup is the most authentic expression of the region. The soup is thick, savory, and loaded with the dark, chewy grains that define Minnesota lake country.

While you eat, take note of the 'Wall of Fame' and the various outfitter stickers. You might see a solo traveler using Zuro to map out their next lake entry point, but most people here are disconnected from their screens, leaning over maps of the Kawishiwi River or the Nina Moose Lake entry. It is one of the few places left where the weather report is discussed with the same gravity as a national election.

The Significance of Wild Rice

Wild rice is not actually rice, but an aquatic grass native to the lakes of Northern Minnesota and Canada. For the Ojibwe people, it is a spiritual and dietary staple, referred to as the 'food that grows on water.' The harvest is still done using traditional methods: one person poles a canoe through the tall grass while another uses two wooden sticks (knockers) to gently tap the ripe grains into the boat. This labor-intensive process is why true lake-harvested wild rice has a smoky, complex flavor and a firm texture that surpasses any commercial variety.

Ely: The Last Frontier

Beyond the food, Ely serves as a cultural anchor. It is home to the International Wolf Center and the North American Bear Center, reflecting the town's deep connection to the apex predators that roam the surrounding woods. In the winter, the town transforms into a dog-sledding capital, where the sound of barking huskies replaces the slap of canoe paddles. The Boathouse remains open through these deep freezes, providing a warm, wood-paneled refuge for those brave enough to tackle the wilderness in sub-zero temperatures.