The Molasses Glaze and the Casco Bay Fog: A Morning at The Holy Donut

In the early hours in Portland, Maine, the air often carries a heavy salt tang from the Atlantic, mingling with the smell of roasting coffee and something deeper, more earthen. While the city has become a world-renowned culinary destination for its lobster rolls and high-end oysters, there is a humbler tradition that locals hold just as dear. It is the smell of the Maine potato donut—a dense, moist, and slightly savory iteration of the classic pastry that has defined Portland’s morning ritual for over a decade.

Standing on the brick-lined streets of the Old Port, you’ll find a steady stream of people moving toward a storefront that has become an institution: The Holy Donut. This isn't the light, airy yeast donut found in suburban chains. This is a substantial piece of Maine history, reimagined through the use of mashed potatoes, creating a texture that is uniquely resilient and deeply satisfying.

Local Story

The story of the potato donut in Maine isn't just about a shop; it’s about resourceful agricultural roots. In a state where the potato harvest is a pillar of the economy—particularly in the fertile soils of Aroostook County to the north—incorporating mashed potatoes into baked goods was historically a way to add moisture and extend the shelf life of bread and cakes. It was a kitchen-table innovation born of necessity.

When Leigh Kellis founded The Holy Donut in 2010, she tapped into this heritage, experimenting in her own kitchen until she found the perfect ratio. The addition of mashed potatoes to the dough creates a chemical reaction that results in a donut that is significantly denser and moister than one made with flour alone. It feels more like a decadent cake than a fried ring of dough.

Today, the shop sources its potatoes locally, ensuring that every bite is tied to the Maine landscape. The staff moves with a practiced rhythm, glazing hundreds of donuts by hand as the sun begins to hit the masts of the fishing boats in the harbor just a few blocks away. For those who live here, these donuts aren't just a treat; they are a fuel source for navigating the rocky coast and the brisk New England winters.

Experience Guide

To truly experience The Holy Donut, you must arrive before the morning rush peaks. The menu is a rotating collection of seasonal inspirations and stalwarts, but the Dark Chocolate Sea Salt is the undisputed king. It is rich, dark, and perfectly balanced by the sharp crystals of salt on top, mimicking the contrast of the Maine woods against the ocean.

For a more traditional Maine flavor, the Allen’s Coffee Brandy donut—infused with the state’s most famous liqueur—offers a sweet, slightly boozy nod to local culture. If you prefer something tart, the Maine Blueberry donut uses the state’s famous wild low-bush berries to provide bursts of acidity that cut through the density of the potato dough.

Grab a box and walk two blocks down to the Maine State Pier. There, you can watch the Casco Bay Lines ferries depart for the islands as you eat. The Zuro app can help you locate the best quiet benches along the Eastern Promenade if you want to escape the Old Port crowds and enjoy your breakfast with a panoramic view of the Atlantic. The donuts are heavy, so one is often enough to last you until a late lunch of clam chowder.

The Science of the Potato

What sets these donuts apart is the starch. The mashed potatoes replace a portion of the flour, which limits gluten development. This results in a 'short' crumb—a culinary term for a texture that breaks easily and stays moist for much longer than a standard cake donut. Because the potato starch holds onto water, these donuts don't dry out within hours. They have a distinctive weight to them; when you pick one up, you can feel the heft of the Maine soil. The frying process creates a crisp outer crust that acts as a barrier, protecting the soft, humid interior.

A Seasonal Landscape

The flavors at The Holy Donut often reflect the changing Maine seasons. In the autumn, you’ll find apple cider potato donuts that use local harvests from orchards in Cumberland County. In the winter, ginger and chai spices take center stage. The shop also caters to modern dietary needs without sacrificing the original texture, offering a variety of gluten-free potato donuts that are widely considered among the best in the country. This commitment to inclusivity has helped the shop remain a community hub rather than just a tourist stop.