The Copper Taps of Bathhouse Row: Tasting the Thermal Springs of Arkansas

In the Ouachita Mountains of central Arkansas, the ground breathes. Hot Springs National Park is defined by the forty-seven thermal springs that emerge from the western slope of Hot Springs Mountain, sending up plumes of white vapor that have drawn travelers for centuries. While most come to soak in the mineral-rich waters within the grand, neoclassical structures of Bathhouse Row, a different kind of ritual takes place at the northern end of the promenade.

Here, the water isn't just for bathing; it’s for brewing. The Superior Bathhouse Brewery occupies a building that once served as a classic spa for the masses. Today, it stands as the only brewery in the world located within a United States National Park, and the only one utilizing 144-degree thermal spring water as the primary ingredient in its mash tun. It is a place where geology and zymurgy meet, offering a taste of the earth's deep heat in a glass.

Local Story

The story of this corner of Arkansas is inextricably linked to the 'American Spa' era of the early 20th century. Bathhouse Row was a center of luxury and wellness, where the Gilded Age elite and baseball legends alike would come to 'take the waters.' The Superior Bathhouse, built in 1916, was the smallest of the eight historic structures on the row, designed to provide affordable hydrotherapy. After the bathhouse era declined with the rise of modern medicine, the building sat dormant for nearly thirty years.

In 2013, Rose Schweikhart saw potential in the vacant brick structure. The conversion into a brewery was a monumental task, requiring a partnership with the National Park Service to ensure the historic integrity of the building remained untouched while installing a modern brewing system. To use the water, the brewery taps into the park’s central distribution system—pipes that carry water naturally filtered through layers of sandstone over a period of 4,000 years. Because the water emerges at such high temperatures and is remarkably pure, the brewers don't need to spend energy heating it for the brewing process, nor do they need to strip out minerals. The result is a profile that is distinctly Ozark: crisp, clean, and carrying a faint, pleasant minerality that serves as a terrestrial tether to the landscape outside.

Experience Guide

Visiting the Superior is less like a typical bar experience and more like a study in historic preservation. The interior retains the light-filled, airy quality of a 1910s bathhouse, with large windows overlooking Central Avenue and the wooded hillsides.

Starting with a 'beer flight' is the recommended approach for the uninitiated. This allows you to sample the range of what thermal water can produce—from light, effervescent golden ales to heavy, complex stouts. If you aren't a drinker, the brewery also produces its own root beer using the same spring water and cane sugar, which is a local favorite for its smooth, creamy finish.

Zuro can help you time your visit to avoid the midday Saturday rush, which often sees tables fill quickly with hikers fresh off the Sunset Trail. Afterward, take a short walk to the Libby Riley Public Fountain or the Noble Fountain nearby. These are public collection points where locals line up with five-gallon jugs to take the spring water home for free—it remains an essential part of daily life here.

The Geology in the Glass

The water used in the brewing process is unique because it is not volcanic. Unlike the geysers of Yellowstone, the heat in Hot Springs comes from the geothermal gradient—the natural heating of the earth's crust as you go deeper. Rainwater falls on the ridges, sinks nearly 6,000 feet into the earth, is heated by the surrounding rock, and then rises rapidly through the 400-million-year-old Hot Springs Sandstone.

This rapid ascent prevents the water from cooling before it reaches the surface. It also ensures the water is exceptionally low in iron and sulfur, which are typical 'off-flavors' in many spring waters. Instead, it is high in silica, calcium, and magnesium. In the brewing world, water chemistry is usually something you manipulate with salts; here, the earth has already done the heavy lifting, providing a balanced, soft water profile that is particularly well-suited for traditional European styles.

Exploring Bathhouse Row

Beyond the brewery, Bathhouse Row is a curated walk through architectural history. Most visitors begin at the Fordyce Bathhouse, which now serves as the park's visitor center and a museum. Walking through the Fordyce is a surreal experience; you can see the original marble stalls, the intricate stained-glass ceilings, and the somewhat alarming mechanical massage devices of the 1920s.

To experience the water as the ancients did, you can still book a traditional soak at the Buckstaff Bathhouse, which has been in continuous operation since 1912. For a more modern spa experience, the Quapaw Baths & Spa offers large communal pools filled with the same steaming mineral water. Between the brewery at one end and the historic soaks at the other, the park provides a rare opportunity to consume a landscape in every sense of the word.