The Steaming Clam and the Cobblestone Dock: A Bowl at Anthony’s Seafood

Rhode Island is a state defined by its relationship with the Atlantic, a jagged coastline where the scent of salt spray is never more than a few minutes away. While its capital, Providence, is a sophisticated culinary hub, the true soul of the region’s seafood culture often lies just across the bridges on Aquidneck Island. Here, away from the Gilded Age mansions of Newport, lies Middletown—a place where the focus shifts from luxury yachts to the hardworking fishing boats that supply the region’s tables.

At Anthony’s Seafood, the experience is stripped of artifice. It is a market-first establishment, a place where the proximity to the docks is measured in minutes rather than miles. This isn't about white tablecloths; it's about the precision of a deep fryer, the clarity of a broth, and the integrity of a clam plucked from the cold North Atlantic waters. For those seeking the specific, unvarnished flavors of the Ocean State, this humble counter-service spot serves as a vital classroom in New England maritime history.

Local Story

The story of seafood in Rhode Island is the story of the quahog. Unlike the soft-shell clams found elsewhere, the quahog is a sturdy, thick-shelled bivalve that requires a bit of work to appreciate. Anthony’s Seafood began as a wholesale operation in the 1950s, a family-run business that understood the rhythm of the tides and the specific demands of the local palate. By the time they opened their retail market and restaurant in the late 1980s, they had already spent decades perfecting the art of sourcing.

Walking into the market side of the building, you are greeted by the sight of gleaming ice beds holding whatever the day’s haul brought in: Atlantic cod, local swordfish, and massive bags of clams. The transition from market to restaurant was a natural evolution, driven by locals who wanted the same quality they took home to be prepared on-site. The atmosphere is bustling and functional, echoing the aesthetic of the docks. You’ll see fishermen in rubber boots standing in line next to visitors who have detoured off the main highway, all waiting for a taste of the 'Stuffies'—a regional term for quahog shells stuffed with a savory mixture of chopped clams, breadcrumbs, and often a touch of spicy Portuguese chouriço, a nod to the region's deep Azorean roots.

Experience Guide

When you visit, the menu can be overwhelming, but the Rhode Island purist begins with the chowder. While most of the world associates New England with the creamy, white milk-based version, Rhode Island has its own secret: clear broth chowder. At Anthony’s, this soup is a revelation of simplicity. It consists of little more than fresh clam liquor, potatoes, onions, and an abundance of clams. It is clean, briny, and intensely savory—a true reflection of the sea without the mask of heavy cream.

Following the chowder, the 'Stuffie' is mandatory. The stuffing is dense and herbaceous, baked until the top is golden and slightly crisp. For a main course, the fish and chips are a local benchmark. Using fresh-caught Atlantic cod or haddock, the batter is light and thin, allowing the flakey, sweet meat of the fish to remain the star. The portions reflect the generosity of a community used to feeding people who work on the water.

Before you head out, browse the market section for a Zuro recommendation on the best local seasonings or to see the variety of shellfish available that morning. The staff here are often the same people who processed the catch, and they speak about fish with the expertise of historians. It’s a place that reminds you that the best food isn't always found in a high-concept kitchen, but in the hands of people who respect the ingredient and the ocean it came from.

The Portuguese Influence

One cannot understand Rhode Island’s food without acknowledging its Portuguese heritage. In the mid-19th century, whalers and fishermen from the Azores and Cape Verde settled in nearby ports like New Bedford and Fall River, bringing with them a love for bold spices and cured meats. This influence is tasted in the local seafood dishes, where chouriço (a spicy pork sausage) is frequently diced into clam boils and stuffings, providing a smoky heat that perfectly complements the sweetness of the shellfish. At Anthony’s, this cultural blend is evident in the depth of flavor found in their stuffed clams.

A Landscape of Tides and Salt

Middletown acts as the rural bridge between the bustling city of Newport and the quiet farmland of the East Bay. After a meal at Anthony’s, a short drive south brings you to Sachuest Point National Wildlife Refuge. Here, the landscape turns into a rugged expanse of coastal shrubland and rocky shorelines. It is the perfect place to witness the environment that produces the bounty you just ate. Walking the trails as the Atlantic crashes against the dark granite rocks, you get a sense of the power and cold beauty of the Rhode Island coast—a stark reminder of why the local seafood is so distinctively hardy and flavorful.