The Molasses-Glazed Potato Donut and the Brick-Paved Lane: A Morning at The Holy Donut

In the early hours in Portland, Maine, the air in the Old Port smells of salt water, diesel from the fishing fleet, and something unexpectedly earthy and sweet. While the rest of the country reaches for airy, yeast-raised rings or crumbly cake donuts, Maine has quietly championed a different beast: the potato donut. This isn't a modern gimmick or a health-conscious alternative; it is a dense, moist, and profoundly satisfying staple that feels as rooted in the New England soil as the tubers used to make it.

The Holy Donut has become the contemporary standard-bearer for this regional tradition. Standing on the corner of Commercial Street or tucked into the brick-lined Exchange Street, these shops serve a pastry that defies the standard donut logic. By incorporating mashed Maine potatoes into the dough, the result is a product that is heavier than a cloud but lighter than a lead weight—a perfect fuel for a city that spends its days hauling lobster traps and navigating granite coastlines.

Local Story

The story of the potato donut in Maine is one of resourcefulness. For generations, Maine has been one of the nation's top potato producers, particularly in Aroostook County to the north. In home kitchens across the state, adding mashed potatoes to dough was a way to stretch ingredients and create a moisture level that flour alone couldn't achieve.

Leigh Kellis founded The Holy Donut in 2010 after a personal quest to find a donut she actually felt good about eating. She turned to her family’s roots and the state’s agricultural backbone. The first batches were made in a home kitchen, with Kellis hand-mashing potatoes and frying them in small batches. The reaction from the local community was immediate. Portlanders, who pride themselves on supporting local producers, recognized the taste of the Maine potato—a subtle, starchy depth that balances the sweetness of the glazes.

Today, the process has scaled, but the commitment to the Maine potato remains. The donuts are still handmade, and the shop has become a fixture of the city's morning ritual. You’ll see fishermen in heavy boots standing in line next to tech workers and tourists, all waiting for a Dark Chocolate Sea Salt or the iconic Maine Blueberry. It is a rare example of a 'tourist must-do' that the locals actually still frequent, largely because the quality hasn't wavered since those first home-cooked batches.

Experience Guide

Visiting The Holy Donut requires a bit of strategy. The Old Port location, with its proximity to the water, often sees lines stretching out the door by mid-morning. To experience it like a local, arrive just as the doors open. The smell of frying dough and fresh coffee provides a warm sanctuary against the brisk Atlantic breeze.

When you reach the counter, the sheer variety can be overwhelming. The signature flavors include the Dark Chocolate Sea Salt, which is rich and almost brownie-like in texture, and the Maine Apple Cider, which captures the essence of a New England autumn. However, for a true taste of the region, look for the Maine Potato with Pomegranate or the Allen’s Coffee Brandy glaze—the latter paying homage to Maine’s best-selling spirit.

Take your haul down to the waterfront. There are benches along the Eastern Promenade or the Maine State Pier where you can watch the Casco Bay Lines ferries depart. The density of the potato donut makes it remarkably resilient to the cold; unlike a standard yeast donut that can turn stale in the sea air, the potato dough stays moist and chewy. If you’re looking for more hidden gems, using Zuro can help you navigate the winding alleys of the Old Port to find the best local coffee to pair with your pastry.

The Science of the Spud

The inclusion of potatoes in the dough isn't just a marketing tactic; it changes the chemistry of the pastry. Starch molecules in potatoes hold more moisture than those in wheat flour. When the dough is fried, the potato starch creates a crisp outer shell while the interior remains remarkably dense and moist. This gives the donut a significant 'heft.' One potato donut is often enough to sustain a person through a long morning of exploring the city’s historic wharves or hiking the trails of nearby Cape Elizabeth.

The Old Port Atmosphere

The Holy Donut’s flagship locations are situated in the Old Port, a district known for its cobblestone streets and 19th-century brick architecture. This area was once the heart of the city's shipping industry and has been meticulously preserved. Walking these streets with a warm donut in hand feels like stepping back in time, even as the city evolves into a premier culinary destination. The shop itself reflects this blend of old and new, with a simple, functional interior that lets the product speak for itself.