The Wild Rice Loaf and the Boreal Frontier: A Table at Northern Ground

In the far reaches of Northeastern Minnesota, where the pavement ends and the sprawling wilderness of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) begins, the town of Ely stands as a rugged outpost. For decades, the local diet was defined by utility: dried meats, heavy grains, and whatever could fit in a Duluth pack. But on the town’s main street, a quiet culinary shift has taken place. Northern Ground has become the standard-bearer for a sophisticated yet grounded Northwoods cuisine, proving that the edge of the wilderness is also a place for deep, intentional flavors.

Walking into Northern Ground feels like stepping into a refined version of a lakeside cabin. The air smells of roasted coffee, browned butter, and the earthy, tea-like aroma of wild rice. This isn't just a place to fuel up before a week of paddling; it is a destination where the ingredients of the Canadian Shield—the granite, the cold water, and the dark forests—are treated with the respect of a high-end bistro.

Local Story

The story of food in Ely is inextricably linked to Manoomin, the Ojibwe word for wild rice. Unlike the hybridized black rice found in most grocery stores, the rice here is often hand-harvested from the shallow lakes and rivers of the region using cedar knocking sticks and birch bark canoes. It is the soul of the Northwoods, and at Northern Ground, it is elevated from a side dish to a centerpiece.

Chef and owner Brandon Powell brought a chef’s sensibility back to his hometown, focusing on a scratch-made philosophy that was once rare in these parts. By sourcing from small Minnesota farms and leaning into the seasonality of the Iron Range, the restaurant bridges the gap between the area’s mining and logging history and a modern, sustainable future. You can see this in the way they handle lake trout—plump, cold-water fish that taste of the deep, glacial basins—or in their use of wild berries gathered during the short, intense summer window. Zuro can help you map out the scenic drive along Highway 1 to reach this remote corner of the state. In this room, the local community of outfitters, biologists, and artists rub shoulders with travelers who have just emerged from the woods, all seeking the same thing: a meal that tastes like the place they are standing.

Experience Guide

To experience Northern Ground properly, arrive when the morning light is hitting the large front windows. The breakfast and lunch menus are where the restaurant truly shines as a community hub. Start with a cup of locally roasted coffee and a bowl of their wild rice porridge or a sourdough toast topped with ingredients that change with the harvest.

For lunch, the wild rice and mushroom soup is a non-negotiable staple. It is thick, savory, and remarkably complex, highlighting the nutty texture of the grain. If they have a seasonal special featuring walleye or lake trout, take it. The fish is typically sourced from regional waters and prepared simply to let the clean, cold-water flavor stand out. The seating is casual, with a mix of high-top tables and cozy corners, making it just as appropriate for a solo traveler with a map spread out as it is for a group sharing a bottle of wine in the evening.

The Terroir of the Canadian Shield

The flavors at Northern Ground are shaped by the geography of the Superior National Forest. The thin soil over ancient granite produces hardy berries—blueberries, raspberries, and thimbleberries—that have a concentrated sweetness you won't find in commercial varieties. The restaurant integrates these into house-made preserves, vinaigrettes, and desserts. Even the water, filtered through the vast network of lakes and marshes, contributes to the clarity of the stocks and the crispness of the house-baked breads. It is a cuisine of scarcity and survival transformed into one of abundance.

Beyond the Table: Ely’s Gateway Culture

Dining here is part of a larger ritual. Ely is the last stop for thousands of wilderness travelers each year. Before heading out, people stop at Northern Ground for one last 'real' meal; when they return, sunburnt and smelling of campfire smoke, they come back for the comfort of a well-crafted sandwich and a cold craft beer. The restaurant serves as a cultural bridge, honoring the ruggedness required to live in the Northwoods while offering the refined hospitality of a modern kitchen. It’s a reminder that even in the most remote corners of the Lower 48, there is room for excellence.