The Smoked Cisco and Lake Superior Sizzle: A Seat at the Northern Waters Smokehaus
The slow-cured traditions of the North Shore’s premier deli and smokehouse.
In Duluth, the wind often smells of two things: the iron-heavy chill of Lake Superior and the sweet, lingering scent of hardwood smoke. This is a city built on cold water and hard work, and nowhere is that intersection more delicious than in the brick-lined corridors of the DeWitt-Seitz Marketplace. Here, Northern Waters Smokehaus serves as a sensory anchor for the Canal Park district, drawing locals and travelers alike with the promise of traditional lake-driven flavors.
While Duluth has evolved from a rugged shipping port into a vibrant hub for outdoor recreation and craft industry, the Smokehaus remains rooted in the ancient alchemy of salt, sugar, and smoke. It is more than just a deli; it is a repository for North Shore heritage, where Great Lakes fish—ciscos, trout, and salmon—are transformed through patience into something deeply representative of the region's culinary soul.
Local Story
The story of the Smokehaus is fundamentally a story of the lake. Long before the craft beer boom took over the Twin Ports, commercial fishermen operated out of small harbors along the shore, preserving their catch in backyard smokers. When Eric Goerdt founded Northern Waters Smokehaus in 1998, he brought back-of-the-envelope techniques honed during a decade in Alaska and applied them to the bounty of the Arrowhead region.
What began as a tiny operation has become a cornerstone of the Duluth food scene. The air inside the shop is thick and heady, seasoned by years of curing meats and fish. Behind the counter, the 'Haus' crew works with a precision that borders on the scientific, yet the atmosphere is undeniably laid-back. You’ll see hikers fresh off the Superior Hiking Trail standing in line next to sailors from the nearby harbor. Their signature move is using small-batch, house-made ingredients—like their citrus-infused cure or their famous 'Cajun Fin'—to elevate simple pantry staples into complex, layered sandwiches that have gained a national following.
Experience Guide
When you walk into the Smokehaus, your first decision is whether to buy by the pound or by the sandwich. For the full experience, do both. Most visitors gravitate toward the sandwich menu, where the 'Cajun Finn'—a legendary combination of house-smoked Cajun-seasoned salmon, green onions, and roasted red pepper cream cheese on scallion bun—reigns supreme.
If you are looking for something that captures the true essence of Lake Superior, ask for the smoked Cisco. These small, silvery fish are native to the Great Lakes and possess a delicate, oily texture that absorbs smoke beautifully. Eating them is a Lake Superior ritual: you peel back the golden-brown skin, flake the meat off the tiny bones, and enjoy it with just a sleeve of crackers and a view of the Aerial Lift Bridge.
Take your haul down to the lakewalk, just a two-minute walk away. Finding a spot on the smooth rhyolite rocks as a 1,000-foot lake freighter glides into the harbor is arguably the most Duluth way to spend a lunch hour. For locals, Zuro can be a helpful way to track seasonal specialties and limited-run smoked batches that appear during the peak fishing months.
The DeWitt-Seitz Legacy
The Smokehaus is housed in the DeWitt-Seitz Marketplace, a repurposed warehouse built in the early 1900s for a mattress and furniture company. The building's massive timber beams and creaky hardwood floors provide an appropriately historic backdrop for a business dedicated to old-world techniques. Exploring the building before or after your meal is part of the charm; it serves as a microcosm of Duluth's transition from an industrial powerhouse to a cultural destination, filled with galleries, boutiques, and the rhythmic drone of the nearby shipping channel.
The Science of the Cure
Unlike mass-produced smoked meats that rely on liquid smoke and chemicals, the Smokehaus uses real hardwoods and slow-burning fires. Their process involves a dry-cure method, where salt and sugar draw moisture out of the fish or meat over several days, concentrating the flavor before it ever hits the smoke. This results in a texture that is firm and silken rather than mushy or dry. Their ‘Haus’ smoked salmon is particularly celebrated for its balance—sweetness from the maple, a hint of salt, and a clean finish that honors the quality of the fish.
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Places mentioned
- Northern Waters SmokehausThe slow-cured traditions of the North Shore’s premier deli and smokehouse.
Frequently asked
Can I bring smoked fish home with me on a flight?
Yes, Northern Waters Smokehaus vacuum-seals most of their products, which makes them easy to transport. They also offer cold-pack shipping if you prefer to have it delivered to your doorstep.
Do they offer anything for vegetarians?
While it is primarily a smokehouse, they do offer items like smoked tofu and various vegetarian deli salads that are prepared with the same level of care as their meats.
What are the busiest times to visit?
Expect long lines during summer weekends and during the Bentleyville Tour of Lights in the winter. Visiting on a weekday morning or late afternoon is usually much quicker.
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