The Sandbar Calamari and the Kelp Forest Tide: A Table at Old Fisherman’s Grotto

Monterey’s Old Fisherman’s Wharf is a place where the air always carries a thick, briny weight—a mix of sea salt, diesel from the fishing fleet, and the unmistakable aroma of garlic and butter. While many wharves across the California coast have surrendered entirely to the neon pulse of souvenir shops, Monterey’s wharf maintains a stubborn, salt-crusted link to its past as a commercial hub for the sardine and whaling industries.

At the heart of this pier sits Old Fisherman’s Grotto. Established in the late 1940s, it has become a landmark of the Monterey Bay, offering a window into a time when the Cannery Row giants were still humming and the bay was the sardine capital of the world. Here, the experience isn't just about the food; it's about the theater of the wharf—the barking sea lions, the creaking timber underfoot, and the deep, cold blue of the Monterey Canyon visible just past the harbor mouth.

Local Story

The story of the Grotto is inextricably linked to the Shake family, a name synonymous with Monterey’s waterfront for generations. Sabu Shake Sr. took over the establishment in the mid-20th century, cementing its reputation as a place where the local catch met a level of culinary refinement that was rare for a pier-side eatery at the time.

In those early days, the wharf was a rough-and-tumble workplace. The 'Grotto' was a refuge for the men coming off the boats, a place where the fog could be shaken off with a bowl of something hot and heavy. The restaurant became famous for its clam chowder—a recipe that remains a closely guarded secret—and its commitment to 'Monterey Style' calamari. Before squid was a ubiquitous appetizer across the country, it was a staple here, harvested from the bay in the dark of night and prepared with a simplicity that let the freshness speak for itself.

Walking into the restaurant today feels like entering a mahogany-lined time capsule. The walls are adorned with photos of a younger Monterey, and the windows offer views of the boats that still supply the kitchen. It is a reminder that while the canning factories of Steinbeck’s era have long since become boutiques and world-class aquariums, the fundamental relationship between the town and the tide remains unchanged.

Experience Guide

To truly experience the Grotto, you must begin with the Clam Chowder. While you will be offered samples from dozens of booths along the wharf, the Grotto’s version is distinctive for its sheer density and depth of flavor. It is a thick, creamy New England-style chowder, but with a richness that suggests a heavy hand with the butter and a generous amount of clams. Ordering it in a sourdough bread bowl is the local rite of passage; the tangy crust of the bread, baked in the San Francisco tradition, provides the necessary acidity to cut through the cream.

Following the chowder, the focus should shift to the bay’s bounty. The Monterey Bay Calamari is a must-try. Unlike the rubbery rings often found in inland pubs, the calamari here is tender, often prepared as a 'steak'—abalone style—lightly breaded and sautéed with butter, lemon, and capers. It is a dish that honors the history of the Italian and Portuguese fishermen who once dominated these waters.

If you are visiting for dinner, try to secure a seat in the back of the dining room near the windows. As the sun dips below the horizon, the lights of the boats in the harbor begin to twinkle, and if you’re lucky, you might spot a sea otter floating in the kelp just a few yards from your table. Zuro can help you find other historic coastal docks if you’re continuing your journey north toward San Francisco.

The Legacy of the Sardine and the Wharf

Before the Grotto was a destination for fine dining, the wharf served as a massive loading dock for the sardine industry. In the 1930s and 40s, the Monterey Bay was teeming with millions of tons of Pacific sardines. The wharf was where the boats unloaded their silvery cargo, which was then moved via conveyor belts to the canneries on what is now Cannery Row. When the sardine population collapsed in the late 1940s, the wharf had to reinvent itself. The Grotto was part of that transition, turning the local maritime culture into a hospitality experience that preserved the atmosphere of the working waterfront while catering to the growing number of visitors coming to see the rugged Central Coast.

Navigating the Waterfront Atmosphere

Visiting Old Fisherman’s Wharf is an exercise in sensory immersion. The walk from the parking lot near Custom House Plaza takes you past some of the oldest buildings in California, including the Pacific House and the Custom House itself, which dates back to 1827. Once on the pier, the soundscape changes. The barking of California sea lions is constant; they lounge on the rafters under the pier and on the nearby rocks of the Coast Guard jetty. While the wharf can be bustling, especially on weekends, the Grotto maintains a quiet, upscale interior that offers a reprieve from the tourist energy outside. It is one of the few places where the 'old' Monterey still feels tangible.