The Potato Donut and the Casco Bay Salt: A Morning at The Holy Donut

In the brick-lined streets of Portland, Maine, where the scent of the Atlantic salt air mingles with the exhaust of lobster boats, there is a specific, heavy aroma that defines the morning. It isn't just sugar; it is something deeper, earthier, and distinctly Mancunian. It is the scent of the Maine potato donut. While the rest of the country looks to flour and yeast to create airy, fleeting pastries, Portland has embraced a denser, more soulful tradition that roots its culinary identity in the rocky soil of the north.

The Holy Donut has become the modern steward of this tradition. Born from a kitchen experiment by founder Leigh Kellis in 2010, the shop transformed a humble home-cooking staple into a cultural phenomenon. Using mashed Maine potatoes in the dough creates a texture that is famously difficult to describe: it is moist, substantial, and carries a slight tang that balances the sweetness of the glazes. To stand in line here is to participate in a ritual that feels both trendy and ancient, a bridge between the state’s agricultural past and its vibrant, food-driven present.

Local Story

Maine’s relationship with the potato is not one of convenience, but of survival. Long before the state became a vacation destination, the northern counties—specifically Aroostook—were the potato capital of the United States. Families grew them, lived on them, and eventually, found ways to turn them into dessert. The potato donut, or spudnut as it is sometimes called in other regions, was a clever way to use leftover mashed potatoes to create a treat that stayed fresh longer than its all-flour counterparts.

At The Holy Donut, this history is treated with a craftsman’s touch. The potatoes are still the star, providing a starchiness that results in a crisp exterior and a crumb that feels almost like a pound cake. The shop’s rise mirrors Portland’s own evolution. Once a gritty fishing port, the city is now a world-class dining hub. Yet, despite the influx of high-concept bistros, the city remains tethered to its roots. You see it in the people standing in line—harbor workers in high-visibility vests rubbing shoulders with tourists clutching Zuro maps and local artists heading to their studios. The potato donut is the great equalizer, a dense, filling piece of Maine history that refuses to be light or airy.

Experience Guide

Visiting The Holy Donut requires a bit of strategy. Because the dough is handmade and the popularity is immense, the shops frequently sell out of specific flavors by mid-morning. If you arrive after noon, you are at the mercy of whatever remains on the racks. The flagship locations in Portland—one on Commercial Street overlooking the water and another on Park Avenue—each offer a rotating menu that reflects the seasons.

The signature experience is the Dark Chocolate Sea Salt. It is a striking, almost black donut topped with coarse flakes of Maine sea salt. The salt heightens the cocoa while the potato dough ensures the pastry doesn't dissolve into a sugar rush. For those seeking something more traditional, the Allen’s Coffee Brandy glaze offers a taste of Maine’s favorite liqueur, a sweet and boozy nod to local culture.

Take your haul down to the waterfront. There are benches along the Eastern Promenade or near the Casco Bay Lines ferry terminal where you can sit and watch the islands in the distance. The weight of the donut is significant; one is often enough to sustain a morning of walking the cobblestones of the Old Port. It is a slow-eating experience, meant to be savored with a cup of strong coffee as the fog lifts off the harbor.

The Science of the Spud

Why potatoes? From a culinary standpoint, the inclusion of mashed potatoes introduces more moisture into the dough than flour alone. The starches in the potato also interfere with the development of gluten, which is why the donuts have a tender, almost creamy interior rather than a stretchy, bread-like one. This density is what allows them to carry heavy glazes—like fresh ginger or pomegranate—without becoming soggy. It is a structural marvel as much as a flavorful one, proving that Maine’s most famous export (aside from lobster) has a place at the breakfast table.

Beyond the Glaze: A Portland Ritual

While the donuts are the draw, the atmosphere of the shops captures the spirit of Portland. The interiors are often bustling and unfussy, decorated with local art and the frantic energy of a kitchen that never stops frying. Even with the growth of the business into multiple locations, there remains a commitment to the Maine-grown potato. This local sourcing supports the northern farmers, keeping the cycle of the 'spud' alive and well. It is a reminder that even in a rapidly changing city, the most successful innovations are often just better versions of what our grandparents used to make.