The Smoked Cisco and the Red-Brick Kiln: A Morning at Russ Kendall’s Smokehouse

If you drive north out of Duluth on Highway 61, the landscape begins to shift from the industrial grit of the shipping canal to the vast, moody expanse of Lake Superior. About twenty minutes into the journey, just as the road dips toward the Knife River, the scent of smoldering maple and alder wood cuts through the fresh lake air. This is the olfactory hallmark of Russ Kendall’s Smokehouse, a roadside institution that has anchored the North Shore’s culinary identity for generations.

Inside the modest, white-sided building, the atmosphere is utilitarian and timeless. There are no fancy garnishes or elaborate plating techniques here. Instead, there is brown butcher paper, a refrigerated case filled with the day’s harvest, and a history that stretches back to the era of commercial fishing fleets that once dominated these cold, deep waters. To eat here is to participate in a ritual as old as the settlement of the shore itself: preserving the bounty of the Great Lakes through salt, smoke, and patience.

Local Story

The story of Russ Kendall’s is inseparable from the history of the North Shore’s Norwegian and Swedish fishing families. Established in the early 20th century—with the current lineage dating back to the 1920s—the smokehouse has survived fire, economic shifts, and the decline of certain fish populations. The business was famously helmed for decades by Russ Kendall himself, a man who became a local legend for his commitment to traditional methods. Today, the family continues the work, using the same fundamental techniques that have been passed down through the years.

The process begins with the lake. The cold, oxygen-rich waters of Lake Superior produce fish with a specific fat content that is ideal for smoking. Historically, cisco (often called lake herring) and lake trout were the staples. While the availability of certain species fluctuates with the seasons and environmental regulations, the technique remains constant. The fish are brined in a simple salt solution before being hung in the smokehouse kilns. There is no automated timer that can replace the intuition of a master smoker who knows, by the color of the skin and the feel of the air, exactly when the wood-fire has done its work.

Locals tell stories of stopping here for 'road fish'—the practice of buying a whole smoked trout, a sleeve of crackers, and a bottle of pop, then heading down to the rocky shore to peel back the golden skin with grease-stained fingers. It is a messy, communal, and deeply Minnesotan experience that connects the modern traveler to the rugged maritime past of the Arrowhead Region.

Experience Guide

Visiting Russ Kendall’s is a straightforward affair, but there are nuances to getting it right. When you walk in, look at the chalkboard or the glass cases to see what is fresh. The smoked sugar-cured salmon is a perennial favorite for its balance of sweet and savory, but the true purist’s choice is the smoked cisco or the lake trout. If they have smoked whitefish, it is a delicate, flakey revelation.

Everything is sold by weight, wrapped tightly in white or brown paper. Do not expect a seating area; this is a take-out establishment. Most visitors take their haul a few blocks away to the Knife River beach or continue north to one of the many state park overlooks. The Zuro app can help you locate the quietest pebble beaches nearby if you want to avoid the crowds at the larger rest stops.

Beyond the fish, the shop stocks a curated selection of North Woods essentials: local jams, wild rice, and perhaps most importantly, high-quality crackers and cheese. A block of sharp cheddar and a sleeve of saltines are the mandatory accompaniments. If you are planning to travel a long distance, the staff can pack your fish with ice, but these preserves are remarkably hardy—after all, that was the original point of the smoke.

The Anatomy of a Lake Superior Cisco

To the uninitiated, the cisco might look like a humble baitfish, but in the hands of a North Shore smoker, it becomes a delicacy. Because cisco are smaller and oilier than many other freshwater fish, they absorb the smoke deeply while remaining incredibly moist. The skin turns a brilliant, metallic gold in the kiln. When you pull the meat away from the bone, it should come off in clean, translucent flakes. It is rich, salty, and carries the distinct 'clean' taste of Lake Superior’s depths, followed by the lingering warmth of the hardwood smoke.

A Legacy of Resilience

In 2014, a devastating fire nearly ended the smokehouse's long run. The community watched as the historic structure was gutted, fearing that a century of tradition had gone up in smoke—literally. However, the Kendall family rebuilt, reopening in a structure that honors the original footprint. The new building maintains the no-nonsense character of the old shop, proving that the soul of the place wasn't in the rafters, but in the recipes and the persistent scent of the smokehouse kilns that survived the blaze.