The Gilded Steam and the Copper Spigot: A Pour at Superior Bathhouse Brewery
Drinking the thermal history of Hot Springs National Park
In the heart of the Ouachita Mountains, where the earth breathes steam through 47 protected springs, lies a stretch of architecture known as Bathhouse Row. For over a century, these ornate buildings served as temples of hydrotherapy, drawing travelers from across the globe to soak in the 143-degree mineral waters. While most of these structures now serve as museums or traditional spas, one has taken the thermal legacy in a decidedly different direction.
Superior Bathhouse Brewery holds a unique distinction: it is the only brewery in the world located within a United States National Park, and the only one utilizing thermal spring water as the primary ingredient in its beer. The building, a classic example of eclectic architecture finished in 1916, no longer echoes with the sounds of splashing tubs, but with the clinking of glasses and the low hum of a working brewhouse.
Local Story
To understand the Superior, one must understand the water. The rain that falls on the surrounding ridges takes roughly 4,000 years to percolate through the Earth, heating up deep underground before rising rapidly to the surface through the Hot Springs Sandstone. By the time it reaches the copper pipes of the brewery, it is rich in minerals—silica, calcium, and bicarbonate—that provide a distinct mouthfeel and chemical profile to the brew.
For decades, the Superior Bathhouse stood vacant, a silent sentinel of the Gilded Age. It was the smallest bathhouse on the row, offering affordable hydrotherapy to the masses until it closed its doors in 1983. It sat dormant until Rose Schweikhart, a musician and homebrewer, envisioned a new life for the space. In 2013, after navigating the complexities of operating a private business within federal land, the brewery opened, effectively turning the "healing waters" of the park into a different kind of tonic.
Walking inside, you can still feel the history. The original tile floors and the large, expansive windows that once ventilated the steam now offer views of the historic Central Avenue. There is a sense of continuity here; while the methods have changed, the central draw remains the same. People still gather around these specific springs to consume what the earth provides, finding a moment of reprieve in the shadow of the Hot Springs Mountain.
Experience Guide
Visiting the Superior is an exercise in slow travel. Because of its location in the National Park, the atmosphere is a blend of park-ranger tidiness and local taproom warmth. Start by ordering a flight—often served on a paddle that reflects the diversity of their 18 taps. The water’s mineral content particularly shines in their lighter offerings, such as their Kolsch-style ales or Root Beer, which is also made with the thermal water.
The menu leans into elevated pub fare, but the star is undoubtedly the beer made on-site. If you’re looking to explore the park further, Zuro can help you locate the trailheads for the Grand Promenade, which runs directly behind the brewery.
Be prepared for a wait during peak weekends; the patio is one of the most coveted spots in town, offering a front-row seat to the rhythms of the National Park. If you visit during the warmer months, the thermal water root beer float is a local staple that utilizes the same ancient water source that once filled the cast-iron tubs in the rooms next door.
The Chemistry of the Spring
Brewing with thermal water isn't just a gimmick; it’s a technical challenge. Most brewers spend significant time 'building' their water profiles using salts and minerals to mimic famous brewing regions like Plzeň or Burton-upon-Trent. At Superior, the water arrives at a near-boiling 143 degrees Fahrenheit, naturally filtered and mineralized by four millennia of geological pressure.
The high silica content gives the beer a smooth, almost silky finish, while the absence of sulfur—a common trait in many other hot springs—ensures the aroma remains clean. The brewery uses this heat to their advantage, saving energy in the initial stages of the boil, a subtle nod to the sustainability of using a geothermal resource.
Exploring Bathhouse Row
After a pint, a walk down the rest of Bathhouse Row is essential. The Superior is the northernmost anchor of this historic district. To the south, you’ll find the Fordyce Bathhouse, which serves as the National Park Visitor Center and museum. It is impeccably preserved, showing the marble stalls, stained glass ceilings, and complex mechanical therapy equipment of the early 20th century.
Continuing down the row, the Buckstaff Bathhouse remains the only facility to have been in continuous operation since 1912, offering the traditional bathing experience—a soak, a needle shower, and a massage. The juxtaposition of these neighboring buildings captures the evolution of Hot Springs: from a destination for clinical hydrotherapy to a modern hub of craft culture and outdoor recreation.
On the map
Places mentioned
- Superior Bathhouse BreweryDrinking the thermal history of Hot Springs National Park
Frequently asked
Can you actually taste the minerals in the beer?
Yes, though it is subtle. The water provides a rounded, soft mouthfeel and a clean finish that is particularly noticeable in their lighter pilsners and golden ales.
Do I need a National Park pass to visit the brewery?
No. While the brewery is located within the National Park boundaries on Bathhouse Row, there is no entrance fee to walk the row or visit the businesses located there.
Is the beer served warm since it uses thermal water?
No, the beer is fermented and served at standard cold temperatures. The thermal water is only used during the brewing process.
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