The Glass Fin and the Soda Fountain Fountain: A Seat at Zaharakos

In the middle of a city renowned for its avant-garde Modernist architecture, there is a corner where time has opted to stand perfectly still. Columbus, Indiana, is famous for its skyscrapers designed by I.M. Pei and Saarinen, but Zaharakos Ice Cream Parlor offers a different kind of structural beauty. It is a cathedral of mahogany, stained glass, and mechanical music that has anchored the downtown district since 1900.

Walking through the front doors of Zaharakos is less like entering a restaurant and more like stepping into a curated 19th-century exhibition. The air smells faintly of waffle cones and old wood, and the visual landscape is dominated by two massive, back-to-back soda fountains that were originally showcased at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. This isn't a retro-themed recreation; it is the genuine article, preserved with a level of detail that borders on the obsessive.

Local Story

The story of Zaharakos began with three Greek brothers—Louis, James, and Pete—who opened the shop as a candy store at the turn of the century. As the decades passed, the parlor became the social heartbeat of Columbus. Generations of locals had their first dates under the glow of the Tiffany-style lamps or celebrated high school graduations with a 'Gomber' (the house-special sloppy joe).

However, by the early 2000s, the parlor had fallen into disrepair and eventually closed. The community feared the interior—the rare marble, the intricate wood carvings, and the massive Welte orchestrion—would be auctioned off piecemeal. It was Tony Moravec, a local businessman and history enthusiast, who stepped in to save the landmark. He didn't just reopen it; he undertook a multi-million dollar restoration that brought the parlor back to its 1900s glory, even tracking down the original 1904 World's Fair soda fountains that had been sold off years prior. Today, the parlor stands as a testament to the city's commitment to both its architectural future and its nostalgic past.

Experience Guide

When you visit Zaharakos, the experience is divided between the palate and the ears. Start by ordering at the long marble counter. While the menu offers full meals, the ice cream is the primary draw. The 'Big Z' sundae is a local favorite, but for a true taste of the shop's history, try a phosphate or a malted milkshake made using the original mechanical mixers.

While you wait for your order, head to the back of the room to see the Welte orchestrion. This massive mechanical instrument, built in Germany, uses rolls of paper to play a full orchestra’s worth of sounds, including drums, pipes, and bells. It is one of the few remaining examples of its kind in a public space. If you're lucky, the staff will trigger a performance, and the room will fill with the booming, carnivalesque music that has entertained guests here for over a century.

Zuro can help you find other architectural gems in the surrounding blocks if you're looking to make a day of your visit. After finishing your sundae, take a moment to look at the 'Crystal Web' stained glass above the fountains—the light filtering through the glass provides the perfect backdrop for understanding why this place has remained a cornerstone of Indiana culture for over 120 years.

The Mechanical Marvels

Beyond the food, Zaharakos serves as a museum of soda fountain history. The parlor houses a collection of mechanical music players and 19th-century syrup dispensers. The most impressive are the twin 1904 World’s Fair soda fountains, crafted from onyx and marble with silver-plated fixtures. These were the pinnacle of technology at the time, designed to chill and carbonate water with maximum efficiency while serving as a grand centerpiece for social gathering. The parlor also features a museum room where you can see early 20th-century candy-making equipment and vintage advertising, offering a deeper look into the business side of the American sweet tooth.

The Famous 'Gomber' and Beyond

While ice cream is the star, the savory side of the menu features the 'Gomber.' This uniquely named sandwich is essentially a seasoned ground beef sandwich, similar to a sloppy joe but with a distinct, house-secret spice blend. It has been a staple of the Zaharakos menu for decades. Pairing a Gomber with a side of chips and a hand-mixed soda—using syrups like cherry, vanilla, or lemon—is the traditional way to enjoy a lunch here. The experience is rounded out by the staff, who often wear period-appropriate attire, further blurring the line between the 21st century and the Gilded Age.