The Glass-Walled Soda Fountain: A Taste of Modernism at Zaharakos

In a city globally recognized for its startling collection of Modernist architecture—where Eliel Saarinen, I.M. Pei, and Richard Meier have all left their mark—there is one corner of Washington Street that feels like a deliberate pause in time. Zaharakos Ice Cream Parlor isn't a glass-walled skyscraper or a geometric church, but it is just as much a temple of design. Since 1900, this institution has served as the social anchor of Columbus, Indiana, surviving the rise of mid-century modernism by remaining steadfastly rooted in the Victorian era.

Walking through the heavy wooden doors, the scent of toasted bread and vanilla sugar hits you first, followed immediately by the visual weight of the history kept here. It is one of the most complete and beautifully preserved soda fountains in the United States, a place where the "Gilded Age" isn't just a theme, but a physical reality carved into the mahogany walls and stained-glass partitions.

Local Story

The story begins with three Greek brothers—James, Pete, and Louis Zaharako—who opened a candy store here at the turn of the 20th century. By 1905, they had transformed it into a soda fountain, sparing no expense to import the finest fixtures the era could offer. They brought in a 50-foot backbar of Mexican onyx and mahogany, topped with Tiffany-style stained glass. They installed Italian marble counters that still feel cool to the touch even when the Indiana humidity rises outside.

The mechanical soul of the parlor, however, is the Welte orchestrion. Installed in 1908, this massive self-playing instrument uses paper rolls to trigger a library of pipes, drums, and triangles, simulating a full orchestra. For decades, the Zaharako family operated the business, maintaining the intricate machinery and the secret recipes for their signature "Gomber" sandwiches—a unique loose-meat sandwich served on a steamed bun.

After a brief closure following a century of family ownership, the parlor was meticulously restored and reopened in 2009. The restoration wasn't just a fresh coat of paint; it was a scholarly recreation. Every brass fixture was polished, the orchestrion was tuned, and the original soda dispensers were brought back to life. Today, it stands as a living museum, balancing the town’s reputation for avant-garde design with a deep, sugary respect for its pioneer-merchant past.

Experience Guide

When you visit Zaharakos, the etiquette is simple: sit at the counter. The marble seats offer a front-row view of the silver draft arms, which are among the few functioning dual-soda dispensers of their kind remaining. Ordering a soda here isn't just about the caffeine; it’s about watching the syrup meet the carbonated water in a ritual that has remained unchanged for 120 years.

Start with the "Gomber" or a classic grilled cheese, but leave ample room for the ice cream. The parlor makes its own, and the flavors are classic—vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry, but done with a richness that justifies the wait. If the orchestrion begins to play—which it frequently does—the entire room falls into a rhythmic sort of trance. The sound is loud, mechanical, and wonderfully physical, vibrating through the floorboards. Zuro can help you locate other architectural landmarks nearby if you’re planning a full day of touring the city’s design heritage.

After your meal, wander toward the back of the building. The Zaharakos museum space houses an impressive collection of soda fountain memorabilia, including a 19th-century mechanical "soda man" and an array of vintage syrup jars and marble dispensers that predate the brothers' own equipment.

The Architectural Context

It might seem jarring to find such a Victorian treasure in a city dubbed the 'Athens of the Prairie' for its modern buildings. However, locals see Zaharakos as the essential prologue to the city's design story. The Cummins Engine Company’s patronage began in the 1940s, bringing world-class architects to town, but Zaharakos represents the civic pride and craftsmanship that existed before the steel and glass arrived. It serves as a reminder that Columbus has always valued the aesthetic experience of its citizens, whether through a soaring spire or a perfectly carved onyx fountain.

The Welte Orchestrion

The 1908 Welte orchestrion is more than a decoration; it is an engineering marvel. Made in Freiburg, Germany, it was designed to provide entertainment before the era of the radio or jukebox. Watching the paper rolls spin and the small mechanical beaters strike the percussion elements is a sensory experience that anchors the room. It is one of the few places in the world where you can eat a meal accompanied by the exact sounds that 19th-century patrons would have enjoyed.